Men Suits
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What is a Mens
Suit?
A suit,
also known as a
business suit, comprises a collection of matching
clothing
consisting of: (http://www.apparelsearch.com/definitions/clothing/suit_definition.htm)
-
A
coat (commonly
known as a jacket)
-
A
waistcoat (optional) (USA
vest)
-
For men, a pair of
trousers (USA
pants),
Nothing says more
about you than a stylish and well-cut business suit is the
specialist.
Mens for the collection of matching
clothing.
The suit is the
traditional outfit of the modern men, Although it is hard to see
the outline of the modern business suit in the elaborate and
brightly-colored court dress of the seventeenth century, the basic
pattern outlined above has survived for more than four hundred years
with some adjustments, notably the abandonment of
wigs
and knee breeches and the gradual disappearance of waistcoats and
hats during the last fifty years.
What we call the
modern suit was originally a nineteenth-century American
innovation in dress: seeking a casual alternative to the long, heavy
frock coats then considered appropriate business dress; men began to
wear lighter coats cut just below the waist when not engaged
in business. This "sack suit" would be worn for formal
occasions by lower-class men and for casual occasions by upper-class
men.
It was there that we learned to fit
and measure and to select clothing for customers that accommodated
their lifestyles simply by talking to them and finding out about
their professions. Designing textiles is like playing jazz. It's all
variations on a theme. Have varieties of weaves and
textures. It was during this tenure we understood the philosophy
about the creativity of men's wear at the mill level
was reinforced. It is at the mills that one can experiment
with fabrication, color, texture and weave
to create lighter yet more durable clothing.
Guide Lines for Mens Suits
Double breasted
suits are always kept fully buttoned. For
single breasted suits, when
standing, all buttons except for the bottom one are fastened. In the
case of
three button suits with
lapels
that roll over the top button, the top button should not be
fattened. Under no circumstances fasten the bottom-most button of a
single-breasted suit jacket. To prevent "bunching," the
single-breasted jacket should be completely unbuttoned while the
wearer is seated.
Tie - Ties should be darker
than the wearer's shirt. The bottom of the tie should just touch or
just go over the top of the belt buckle. The shirt collar should not
be the button-down variety, although this guideline is frequently
ignored. It is also advised that all buttons of the shirt, including
the top one are buttoned for a tidy appearance.
Acceptable colors for belt and
shoes are brown and black. The belt and shoes should match one
another. The belt's buckle should be silver or gold. Other metallic
objects worn with the suit (such as
cuff links,
tie bar, tie tack,
watch)
should match the belt buckle. Where watches are concerned: the more
formal the occasion, the thinner the watch. In the most formal
situations, the watch should be kept in one's pocket.
Shoes should not have rubber soles. Rather,
they should be made of leather. Some companies also make dress shoes
with wooden soles.
Socks should match the pant
leg. This makes the leg appear longer, as well as minimizes the
notice ability of a too-short pant leg. If it is not possible to
match the pant leg, socks may match one's shoes. However, it is more
correct to match the pants.
The classic conservative shirt colors
are light blue or white. The classic conservative suit colors are
navy blue, grey, and charcoal. Mens Black suits has only recently
gained acceptance as a suit color, and still is not considered
particularly conservative. The most formal type of dress shirt worn
with a standard suit is a shirt with
French cuffs,
which use cuff links (or the lesser known silk knots) to close, but
this type of shirt is optional, and essentially up to the
preferences of the wearer.
Suit, with varieties such as a
business suit, three-piece suit, lounge suit or
two-piece suit, is a collection of matching clothing comprising:
A coat (commonly known as a
jacket)
A pair of matching trousers (BEn)/pants (AmEn), or a skirt for
women.
Optionally, a waistcoat (BEn)/vest (AmEn) (men only). A two-piece
suit or lounge suit is one lacking a waistcoat; a three-piece suit
has one.
The term suit comes from the word "suivre" in French meaning "to
follow". It relates to the fact that the trousers and waistcoat
'followed' the jacket in colour and material.
A suit is generally accompanied by
a collared shirt and tie (for men), or a blouse (for women). A hat
such as the fedora and the bowler (for men), or the pill box (for
women), in Western countries, used to complete the outfit, but over
the course of the 20th century they largely fell out of fashion and
are no longer commonly worn with suits.
Men wear
suits much more frequently than women. Women's suits, a
later development than men's suits, are usually worn only in
business settings. For other dressy occasions, women more frequently
wear other styles of formal clothing.
The suit is the traditional form of male
formal attire in the Western world. The modern suit did not appear
until the mid nineteenth century, but the origins of its coat can
be traced back to the revolution in men's dress set by Charles II,
king of Great Britain in the 1660s. Charles, following the example
of the court of Louis XIV at Versailles decreed in 1666 that at
court, men were to wear a long coat or jacket, a waistcoat
(originally called a petticoat, a term which later became applied
solely to women's dress), a cravat (ancestor of the modern
necktie) a wig, and breeches or trousers gathered at the knee, as
well as a hat for outdoor wear. Coats with matching trousers or
even waistcoat have gone in and out of fashion over the last four
centuries however the modern
long suit coat is still derived from historical coats.
Although it is hard to see the outline of the modern business suit
coat in the elaborate and brightly-coloured court dress of the
seventeenth century, the basic pattern has survived for more than
four hundred years with some adjustments, despite the abandonment
of wigs and knee breeches after the French Revolution; the rise of
British tailoring, which used steam, pressure, padding, and
stiffening to mould woolen fabric to the body; the invention of
the modern necktie in the late nineteenth century; and the gradual
disappearance of waistcoats and hats during the last fifty years.
What we call the modern suit was
originally a nineteenth-century English innovation in dress. It was
originally usually referred to a lounge suit and was worn only in
the country and at the seaside. At that time morning dress and frock
coats were not part of a 'suit' because they are were usually worn
with non-matching striped trousers, and having matching waistcoat
and trousers was originally considered more informal. The term
"ditto suit" was also transiently used early on due to the matching
waistcoat and trousers, these sometimes having coats more resembling
a frock coat or a morning coat. The "sack suit" is a North America
derivative of the English lounge suit which looked even looser and
more casual because it lacked darts. In the nineteenth century, when
dressed more informally, men still wore morning dress as a more
casual alternative to the formal frock coats then considered
appropriate business and day time formalwear. The lounge suit was
thus an even more casual form of dress and was reserved solely for
recreation activities.
The lounge suit became
increasingly widely worn through the later nineteenth century as
casual town daywear until it started to become an acceptable
alternative to the morning coat as town wear in the early twentieth
century. As the lounge suit became increasingly popular, even the
humblest men would have at least one suit to wear on Sunday to
church, as part of their "Sunday best." Victorian men who were able
to afford it would still wear a frock coat to church. The waistcoat
or vest was worn regularly with the suit until World War II, but is
rarely seen today.
At the end of the nineteenth
century, an informal evening version of the lounge suit emerged in
England, known as a dinner jacket in British English, in a dress
code referred to as black tie. When it was imported to the United
States it became known as as the tuxedo. The dinner jacket was
originally called a 'dress lounge' in England to indicate that it
was a lounge suit for evening wear. The 'dress lounge' was
originally worn only for small private gatherings and white tail tie
was worn for large formal events. The 'dress lounge' slowly became
more popular for larger events as an alternative to full evening
dress in white tie. As black tie grew in popularity, it has became
increasingly acceptable as formalwear and today has all but replaced
white tie, which today is only seen at ultra-formal occasions. The
daytime formal equivalent to white tie is morning dress but in the
United States this too has become uncommon and the daytime
semi-formal dress called the stroller is more common. The stroller
is itself a form of 'dress lounge' - a day time semi-formal lounge
suit version of morning dress.
Buttoning the suit
Double breasted suits are always kept buttoned. When there is
more than one to-button (as in a traditional six-on-two
arrangement), only the top one is to be fastened. Often, this is
the only one that can be properly fastened, because the bottom
to-button often lacks a corresponding interior flap button. In the
case of arrangement such as the six-on-one, particularly popular
when the double-breasted suit first staged a comeback in the
1980s, one has no choice but to fasten the bottom button as this
is the only option.
Single-breasted suits are buttoned
while standing. In a three-button suit, all but the bottom button
can be done up, but if one it is the middle one, if two it is the
middle and top ones. In
two button suits it is appropriate to button the top button, but
never the bottom button only. When sitting the jacket should be
unbuttoned to prevent bunching. Three-button suits present a couple
of special situations. In the case of three button suits with lapels
that roll over the top button, the top button should not be
fastened. These are typically older three button jackets;
contemporary three-button suits are not normally designed this way.
With a typical three-button suit made today, one has the option of
buttoning only the middle button in the manner of the old
three-button cuts, or following the convention of buttoning every
button but the bottom-most one.
Suit colors
A pinstriped navy blue suit, with a grey one in the background.The
classic business-suit colors are navy blue, grey, and charcoal. A
more modern color palette can include browns and darker shades of
green although these colors are still not widely accepted in the
more traditional professions. Black is traditionally a color
reserved for one's dinner jacket (tuxedo), but may be worn in
religious contexts such as a to a funeral or religious function.
Pattern
Traditional suits are generally
solid colors or
pinstripes, with refined plaids sometimes
qualifying. The color of the patterned element (stripes, plaid
checks) varies by gender.
[edit] Ties with suits
See also main article Necktie
Working with ties is very much a matter of personal taste, but in
conservative terms there are some basic guidelines. Ties should
always be darker than the wearer's shirt. The background color of
the tie should not be the same as that of the shirt, while the
foreground of the tie should contain the color of the shirt and
thereby "pick up" on the color of the shirt. Ideally, the tie should
also integrate the
color of the suit in the same way. Generally, simple or subdued
patterns are preferred for conservative dress, though these are
terms with a wide range of interpretation. Some of the most common
knots are the Four-in-hand, the Half-Windsor, the Windsor (or
Full-Windsor), and the Shelby or Pratt. A Four-in-hand,
Half-Windsor, or Windsor is generally the most appropriate with a
suit, particularly by contemporary guidelines. Once properly knotted
and arranged, the bottom of the tie should just touch or just go
over the top of the belt buckle. The thin end should never extend
below the wide end.
People working in medical
professions should avoid wearing ties, unless they wear a newly
washed tie each day, as these pieces of fabric are known as major
vectors in the transmission of disease within hospitals.
It is not advisable, particularly
in the United Kingdom, to wear striped ties unless they are
representative of a club, regiment, school etc. of which one is a
member, in order to avoid the confusion and embarrassment - or even
hostility - that ensues when the tie is recognised by a member of
such an organisation.
Shirts and blouses with suits
Main article: Dress shirt
The type of shirt worn by men with a suit is a top made of woven
cloth, with long sleeves, a full-length buttoned opening down the
front, and a collar; this type of garment is known in American
English as a dress shirt or Oxford shirt but simply as a shirt in
other English dialects. It is ironed, tucked into its wearer's
trousers, and otherwise worn according to the etiquette described in
the article dress shirt.
The classic shirt colors are light
blue or white, with white edging out as most conservative. The most
formal type of dress shirt worn with a standard suit is a shirt with
French cuffs, using cuff links or silk knots instead of buttons to
close the sleeves, but this type of shirt is optional, and
essentially up to the preferences of the wearer and the vagaries of
fashion.
The most traditional collar is a
spread collar. This is frequently the default collar type for French
cuff shirts, though they can sometimes be found with point collars.
Normally button-down collars are reserved for use with a sportcoat
or without a coat at all. The button-down collar is not seeing as
much wear today, particularly with the resurgence of more
formal shirts with spread collars and French cuffs, even in
business casual wear.
Short-sleeve shirts, tennis
shirts, and t-shirts should never be worn with a suit.
For women, a blouse (usually
white) takes the place of a shirt.
Socks with suits
In the United States it is common for socks to match the pant leg.
This makes the leg appear longer and minimizes the attention drawn
by a pant leg tailored to be too-short. A more general rule is for
socks to be darker than the shade of
men pants, but potentially a different
color.[1] With patterned socks, ideally the background color of the
sock should match the primary/background color of the suit. If it is
not possible to match the pant leg, socks may match one's shoes.
Comedians like Jerry Lewis (in the
past), then-Supreme Court Associate Justice Thurgood Marshall and
teenage boys have been known to wear white socks with their suits.
Though it may have been fashionable to wear them in the 1950s, black
or other, dark dress socks are much preferred to white socks for
most occasions.
[edit] Accessories with suits
Acceptable colors for belts (if worn) and shoes are black and
burgundy/cordovan, though since the 1980s various shades of darker
browns (particularly mahogany) have started to gain acceptance.
Light browns such as saddle tan should be
reserved for use with business casual wear. The belt and shoes must
match one another, at the very least in color category if not almost
exactly in shade. The belt's buckle should be silver or gold. Other
metallic objects worn with the suit (such as cuff links, tie bar,
tie tack, watch) should match the belt buckle. Where watches are
concerned: the more formal the occasion, the thinner the watch.
Analogue watches are more formal than digital watches. In the most
formal situations, a pocket watch, or no watch at all, should be
worn. The pocket watch should also match the other metal objects in
size and color. Leather-soled shoes are traditional and
traditionally have a more "dressy" appearance. Some companies also
make dress shoes with wooden soles.
Handkerchiefs and pocket
squares/silks in the upper welt (chest) pocket are not especially
common in today's formal dress. Originally, handkerchiefs were worn
partially protruding from the left jacket sleeve. Over time, they
migrated to the breast pocket. When silk was still a rare and
expensive commodity, they were considered a flamboyant extravagance
by conservative commentators. By the end of the nineteenth century,
however, they had become a standard accoutrement for gentlemen.
Mens Dress Suits
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