08/03/2011 - Slim Suits / Fitted Suits
Wondrous planetary alignments may excite astronomers, but not the average Joe who just wants to see a nice comet. The same is true in the world slow men's clothing. But a harmonic convergence in tropical weight wool, takes place right now, and men should listen, because it will probably affect their lives much more than Mercury is in retrograde ever.
Anywhere a man shops - fashion houses like Gucci, Prada and Yves Saint Laurent, the limits to English prep Polo Ralph Lauren and Paul Stuart; traditional Italian luxury houses like Brioni and Kiton; the old school American clothiers like Brooks Brothers and Hickey Freeman and trendy young lines like Rag & Bone and Trovata - the most popular suit is an elongated silhouette and trimmed-down that is sending other forms of packaging (and n Do not forget the mothballs).
With slight deviations to reflect taste, the specifications of the costume of modern man are as follows: a two-button closure, narrow lapels in a high-style notch or peak, high armholes, shoulders narrowly game and finely padded, low waist, slim cut pants with hems that never did reach the top of the shoes, daring to bare (just as the first women a century ago) a bit of sock or skin.
This is not a sudden convergence, after a decade or more in the decision. But the fact of a single silhouette coming into focus at so many diverse clothiers represents a rare consensus in the world of men's clothing.
"A few years ago, one could distinguish what was Armani, what was Brioni, what was Prada," said Salvatore Cristiano of L & S Tailors custom, which was the modification and manufacture of clothing Men on the Upper East Side of 33. "Now, you can not make a difference."
The change emphasizes the influential slimmer, body-conscious man has become the traditional fashion. Fashion-watchers may be tempted to locate the epicenter of the trend that the collection of Mr. X to four years ago or the smashing style of rock star Y or Z. Although the movie star, you can track the items in the attempt to influence a designer - the shorter jacket and pants can be credited to Hedi Slimane and Thom Browne, the position to two buttons to Tom Ford, high armhole to Helmut Lang, the back lean Jil Sander, the flat front pants to Romeo Gigli - the slimmer shape owes its success to one man, the guy known as end-user. Today, it has the same agenda for his tailored clothing as for his T-shirts and jeans.
"You get to show your physique more," said Michael Chan, 30, a trader actions in New York in the last year bought two slim, two buttons on costumes Sixteen Twenty, a manufacturer of bespoke suit in Nolita. "It is more fitted look, not so broad or amorphous, so you can see the shape of the body."
All three-button suits in his closet? "I do not wear them anymore," he said. "Those big, square shoulders, all that room swimming in size, it looks totally outdated, like you're back in the 1990s."
Indeed, if "clean" was the buzzword of the 1990s, leanness has now closer to the edge piety. Consider the promotion that Bloomingdale's is having for men tonight at its New York flagship. Sponsored with Equinox and Men's Health, which tirelessly promotes weight loss for men, "the new suit, New You" extols the joys of the campaign of a slimmer silhouette both in and out of clothes.
"In some ways, it makes it more difficult to get a guy in a suit now," said Kevin Harter, director of Bloomingdale's men's clothing, stressing that unless action follows the contours built around the torso of a man it's not a padded armature rests on the shoulders of a man and closes at his waist. "Five years ago, you can just put a guy in a suit ready-to-door, and if he could button comfortably, you were all together. Now it's a bit more complicated. It's all about the fit around the chest and waist and shoulder. "
Todd Komarnicki, 41, a writer and producer, welcomes him clothes that keep his toes (and on the ladder). "He demands the best of your own physical," said Mr. Komarnicki. "You should not hide in a costume. You should be proud." Moreover, he added, the two-button suit feels less formal. "It's kind of fancy casual. You can get dressed in it, or you can rock sneakers with it, which is what I did for my wedding."
As intimidating as the new silhouette may be the middle of the roaders, most men want to improve their Softwear or risk being left behind. Many will have to look in their closets and decide what to eliminate to make room for the new industry standard.
They are the lucky ones. Some will not seek in the closet but, say, the refrigerator to ask: "OK, what do I have to lose?"